RETAINING WALL GEO GRID SYSTEM FOR REPAIRING RETAINING WALLS
After selecting your hillside site, begin your excavation at the lowest point of the wall, working both ways to the projected end points, digging a trench 24" wide and 12" deep. Make the bottom flat and level; if the grade changes such that you need to "step the wall", do so by changing the trench height in increments of one block. You may use the excavated soil to level the bottom of the trench. if this method is not done here correct here is what you could face paying twice. REPAIRED RETAINING WALL BY MATVEY CONSTRUCTION
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INSTALLING NEW RETAINING WALL IN 8" LIFTS WITH GEO GRID
Tamp, tamp, tamp the soil in the trench. If the soil is loose when you lay in the base course, that course will not stay level, the wall will not be level, and, in the extreme, will eventually fail and you will be subject to immense amounts of ridicule. (Did I mention you should tamp the soil?) Lay in the first row (or lift) of wall blocks, ensuring that the top of the blocks is pretty well flush with the ground (i.e. bury the rascals); my rule of thumb is to bury the blocks 1 1/2" deep for each foot of height (4' wall = 6" trench.) Level, level, level the base course. Use the 4 or 6' level to ensure the base is level from side to side and the torpedo level to do the same front to back. If the base is not level, the wall will not be level and, at a minimum, will look sloppy and, at a maximum, will fail and you will be subject to immense amounts of ridicule. (Did I mention level the wall?) OK, the (technically) hard part is complete. Cut a block in half by scoring it on the top and bottom at the middle with your chisel and hammer, then giving it a good whack in the center. Lay this block at the end of the first (above-ground) lift, then add full blocks from side to side such that each block sits atop the joints of the blocks below it; if you place the blocks directly on top of each other, you will have a bunch of individual walls stacked next to each other; they will fail and you will be subject to ... you know the rest.. At the level of the second lift, put your drain line behind the wall, with the lower end protruding from the end of the wall, cover it with the fabric, and begin backfilling with the drainage gravel, starting at the back of the wall and moving out about 6" from the wall, then start adding your excavated soil (or purchased soil, as necessary) between the gravel and the slope of the hill. Approximately every 6" high, tamp the soil. With this wall, you don't need to worry about setback or batter; the lip (or pins, if you used a pinned wall system) automatically sets it for you. Additionally, now is the time to put the fabric against the rear of the wall and hold it in place with the backfill gravel. Continue adding lifts to the wall, cutting blocks, staggering joints, and backfilling, until you reach your desired height, which should be about 2" above the soil's surface. At this point, lay out the caps, cut them as necessary, glue them with the construction adhesive, and you're finished
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ALLTHREAD TIE BACK ANCHORING SYSTEM
Wall anchor systems stabilize foundation walls and, in many cases, can straighten the wall over time. The advantages also include: - Installation can usually be completed in less than one day.
- All systems can be installed year-round.
- Economical - less expensive than re-building existing basement walls.
MATVEY CONSTRUCTION INC
253-737-9779 FOR FREE ESTIMATES CLICK BELOW
matveyconstruction@hotmail.com
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